The Dolomites in mid-June 2023 – Day 11: Cinque Torri


The next day we set off early again for Cinque Torri.  We left nothing to chance, by walking up to the bus station, and the bus came on time. Whilst waiting I noticed this ingenious solution to making moveable planters to position on the steep slope. Lago di Valparola The ...(more below)

August 6, 2023
AGS Editor





The next day we set off early again for Cinque Torri.  We left nothing to chance, by walking up to the bus station, and the bus came on time.

Whilst waiting I noticed this ingenious solution to making moveable planters to position on the steep slope.

Vibrant pink flowers in window boxes and wooden planters outside a traditional Alpine building, showcasing Alpine gardening and floral displays with decorative window frames.

Lago di Valparola

The first stage of the bus journey took us through La Villa and up to the Falzarego Pass, with a brief stop at the Valparola Pass.  I couldn’t help looking at the Lago di Valparola and wondering what flowers I might find walking round it.

Falzarego Pass

At Falzarego Pass we had a short wait before catching a bus down the far side of the pass towards Cortina, though we would get off at Cinque Torri.  The skies were stormy (interesting) but it wasn’t raining, albeit bitterly cold (8 degrees C) with a biting north wind.

Knautia arvensis

Walking from the bus stop to the bottom of the chair-lift at Cinque Torri, we spotted a white scabious (Knautia arvensis).

Purple and white wildflowers in a grassy field, perfect for alpine gardening enthusiasts, showcasing diverse plant species suitable for alpine gardens and rockeries.

Rhododendron ferrugineum

The slope beneath the lift was a two-tone carpet of Rhododendrons.  I don’t know whether the different colours indicated the presence of Rhododendron hirsutum, or whether it was just age or natural variation.  But all the Rhododendrons I found at the top of the lift were definitely Rhododendron ferrugineum.

My eyes picked out some lower growing clumps of pink on the side of this rocky outcrop.  I was convinced these were Rhodothamnus chamaecistus.  But I hoped we would find more at the top, without having to walk back down to see them.

Alpine garden landscape featuring rocky mountain terrain with scattered trees and dramatic cloudy sky.

Cinque Torri

From the top of the cable car (2250m) we had wonderful views of the rocky ridges to the south-east, with Monte Pelmo behind them to the right, and Monte Antelao and Croda Marcora to the left.  Directly to our east rose the rocky outcrops of Cinque Torri.

Majestic rocky mountain formations in the Dolomites with lush green meadows and hiking trails, perfect for alpine gardening enthusiasts and mountain lovers exploring natural landscapes in Italy.

Mount Averau

Nearer to us loomed Mount Averau.  We had been told to take the path that climbed southwards towards it, then to look for Rhodothamnus on the limestone plateau / pavement that we would cross.  Our first impressions were meadows full of Trollius europaeus, and banks dotted with Dryas octopetala.

Rocky mountain with sparse snow cap and lush green trees at the base within the Alps, showcasing alpine landscape and geology, perfect for alpine gardening enthusiasts and nature lovers.
Wild alpine flowers blooming on a grassy hillside designed for alpine plant enthusiasts and garden lovers.
Yellow alpine flowers in a green meadow with a mountain in the background, showcasing a stunning alpine garden landscape.

Primula farinosa

Bird’s-eye Primoses dotted in the short grass, as they did everywhere we went this year.

Gentiana verna

With the Primula we found spring gentians, in this case unmistakably Gentiana verna.

Pulsatilla alpina subsp. austroalpina

Then I rounded a bank, and saw white cups on long stalks.  Unmistakably the white form of Pulsatilla alpina.  I would have called it Pulsatilla alpina subsp. alpina, but nowadays, the plants in this area are called Pulsatilla alpina subsp. austroalpina.

Pulsatilla alpina subsp. apiifolia

However, not all the plants were white.  Before long, I discovered yellow ones (Pulsatilla alpina subsp. apiifolia), and some creamy individuals which may have been hybrids.

Salix species

We climbed up a slope, away from the grass, up onto a flattish limestone plateau.  In winter, this formed a ski piste.  The rock was close to the surface everywhere, with just a thin covering of turf.  Here we found a large-growing but quite prostrate willow with long round catkins.  I have not established a firm identity for it.  My best guess at the moment is S. hastata or S. hegetschweileri.

Unsure if the image is from the Alpine Garden Society website, but here are the SEO text values based on the provided image and context:.
White blossom of a flowering shrub with fuzzy cylindrical flower spikes and green foliage, representing alpine garden plants.

Rhodothamnus chamaecistus

Finally, on a rocky outcrop, my eyes caught the bright pink / magenta I was looking for.  This is the very beautiful Rhodothamnus chamaecistus.

Pink alpine flowers blooming among green foliage, showcases alpine garden plants suitable for rockeries and garden borders. Perfect for alpine plant enthusiasts and garden design inspiration.

Pulsatilla alpina

As we progressed slowly uphill, we came across more and more Pulsatilla alpina.  Some seemed to be white, some seemed to be yellow, some were intermediate.  All had pretty blue-veined backs to the petals.  I don’t know where I should draw the lines.  They were beautiful, beautiful plants whatever I should call them.

White alpine poppies blooming in a garden setting, showcasing delicate petals and vibrant yellow centres, ideal for alpine gardening and rock garden enthusiasts.

Loiseleuria procumbens

We found Creeping Azalea (Loiseleuria procumbens) here.  The flower wasn’t as dense as at Porta Vescovo, but the tiny pink stars extended widely across the turf.

Wild alpine groundcover with pink flowers and lush green foliage, suited for mountain gardens and rocky landscapes, promoting Alpine Garden Society plant diversity and sustainable gardening.

Rhodothamnus chamaecistus

But the real highlight was the Rhodothamnus.  As we found more and more specimens, we realised there was considerable variation in the tone of pink.

I couldn’t stop photographing them.

Salix species

As we climbed higher we found even smaller willow species.  I am not sure whether these are Salix retusa or Salix serpyllifolia, or indeed even whether the two plants shown are the same.

Vrouwentong (Sedum rupestre) growing on rocky ground, a hardy succulent plant ideal for alpine gardens and rockeries.

Salix reticulata

But I am confident that this was S. reticulata.

Pulsatilla alpina

Here the white and cream cups of Pulsatilla alpina danced above the turf in depressions on the hillside.

Delicate alpine wildflowers blooming on a grassy hillside, showcasing native plants encouraged by the Alpine Garden Society for rock gardens and mountainous environments.
Wild Anemone Flower growing in natural alpine garden, close-up of native wildflower species with green foliage and grass background.
Bright white alpine poppies with yellow centres blooming in a lush garden setting, showcasing native garden plants for alpine gardening enthusiasts.
Wild alpine flowers blooming in a rocky mountain meadow, showcasing the beauty of alpine plants and native flora. Perfect for Alpine Garden Society enthusiasts interested in native and wild alpine plant habitats.
White anemone flowers in a garden bed, showing the beauty of wildflowers and alpine plants, perfect for Alpine Garden Society enthusiasts and rock gardening.
White alpine flower, rock garden plant, alpine garden society, rare mountain flora, flowering plant in natural habitat.

Dryas octopetala

In drier, rockier places, Dryas octopetala replaced the Pulsatilla with a lower carpet of smaller white cups.

Dactylorhiza viridis

Amongst the Dryas, we found one solitary Frog orchid (Dactylorhiza viridis), some very pink forms of Homogyne alpina, and good plants of Silene acaulis.

Vivid pink wildflowers thriving in a natural alpine garden setting, surrounded by green grass, white daisies, and small yellow blooms, showcasing the diverse flora typical of alpine plant collections.

Crocus vernus albiflorus

A few last pockets of snow lay here, surrounded by Crocus and Soldanella.

Snow patch on mountain slope in alpine landscape with rocky terrain and green grass, high-altitude environment, under cloudy sky, focus on alpine flora and rugged scenery, ideal for alpine gardening inspiration.
Purple crocus flowers blooming in a natural alpine garden setting with dry grass and soil.

Soldanella alpina

Most of the Soldanella were S. alpina, but we found small numbers of S. pusilla and S. minima among them.

Violet alpine flowers blooming on a mountain slope with grass and rocks, showcasing alpine gardening and mountain plants for garden enthusiasts.
Violet wildflowers blooming in Alpine garden soil, showcasing delicate bell-shaped petals, perfect for alpine garden plant enthusiasts and wildflower conservation.
Alpine garden wildflowers with purple bell-shaped blooms, showcasing rare alpine plants for garden enthusiasts and plant collectors.
Delicate purple alpine flowers growing in rocky soil, showcasing the beauty of high-altitude flora. Perfect for alpine gardening enthusiasts and plant lovers interested in hardy, low-maintenance plants.
Anemone patens flower blooming in wild rocky terrain, symbolising alpine bloom diversity.

Pulsatilla vernalis

And among the Soldanella, we found one solitary flower of Pulsatilla vernalis.

Fine alpine plants blooming on a mountain slope with a snowy backdrop, perfect for alpine gardening enthusiasts.
White Pasque Flower blooming in early spring, showcasing its distinctive white petals and bright yellow stamens, ideal for alpine gardening and rock gardens.

Dryas octopetala

The path continued upwards a long way, but we were uncomfortable about following it, aware that we both struggled with descents.  Before we returned, I wanted to cross to the far side of the piste.  There, I could see a gully and a rocky ridge I wanted to explore.

Wild alpine daisies flowering on rocky mountain terrain in the Alps, showcasing hardy alpine plants for garden cultivation and natural habitat preservation.
Vivid alpine garden scene with colourful pink and white flowers, lush green foliage, and rocky terrain, showcasing the beauty of mountain flora and suitable for Alpine Garden Society enthusiasts.

Rhodothamnus chamaecistus

Among the rocks on the far side of the gully I found more plants of Rhodothamnus chamaecistus in excellent condition, ranging from pale pink, through lilac, to quite dark shades.

Vibrant pink alpine flowers growing among rocks and grass on a mountain slope, showcasing the beauty of high-altitude garden plants and wild flora in the UK.
Pink alpine flowers in a mountain landscape with rocky peaks and green meadows, showcasing the beauty of alpine gardening and plant conservation.

Pinguicula alpina

Eventually, I had to tear myself away.  Crossing back over the piste, I found scattered plants of Pinguicula alpina.

Silene acaulis

One plant of Silene acaulis was in exceptional condition, and very densely flowered.

Trollius europaeus

As we returned slowly, we passed back through the meadow of Trollius europaeus.

Vibrant alpine meadow filled with yellow wildflowers beneath rugged mountain peaks, showcasing stunning natural scenery typical of alpine garden landscapes.
Alpine garden with yellow wildflowers in front of rugged mountain landscape, perfect for alpine plant enthusiasts and garden enthusiasts interested in mountainous flora.

Mount Lagazuoi and Falzarego

From here, we had excellent views of Mount Lagazuoi, and the area east of the Falzarego Pass which we explored last year.  Including the ruins of the German hospital which we never quite reached.

Alpine mountain landscape with rugged peaks and lush green slopes, ideal for alpine gardeners and mountain flora enthusiasts.
Vibrant alpine garden with mountain backdrop showcasing diverse flora, perfect for alpine plant enthusiasts. Discover stunning plants and scenic landscapes at the Alpine Garden Society.

To the east, clouds still wreathed the mountains.  We had not yet explored the area around the Cinque Torri, and decided to stop for lunch in the rocks around it, where we might find shelter from the biting north wind.

Alpine garden landscape with mountain views, lush green meadows, winding paths, and dramatic rocky peaks, ideal for alpine gardening and plant enthusiasts.
Rock formations in the Dolomites mountain range, Italy, during cloudy weather with lush green meadows and wildflowers in the foreground. hikers enjoy the scenic alpine landscape.
Rugged mountain landscape with rocky slopes and sparse alpine vegetation, featuring towering peaks partially obscured by clouds, representing the natural beauty of alpine gardens and mountain flora.

In the distance, climbers hung from the limestone towers of the Cinque Torri like a Christmas tree.

Daphne striata

We found a little shelter among the rocks for lunch.  The flowers also seemed to like it out of the wind.  There were Silene acaulis cushions and some good compact forms of Daphne striata.

Rhododendron ferrugineum

Red Rhododendrons covered the hillside, but all were Rhododendron ferrugineum.

Vibrant pink alpine rhododendrons bloom on a green hillside with rocky formations and scattered trees in the background, highlighting the beauty of mountain flora in a natural alpine garden setting.

Rhodothamnus chamaecistus

Among the rocks there were scattered plants of Rhodothamnus.

Alpine garden with colourful low-growing plants, rocks, and tall conifer trees under cloudy sky, showcasing mountain flora and landscape design.

Anemone baldensis

We had seen odd flowers of Anemone baldensis higher up, among the Pulsatilla alpina, but the ones here were more numerous, and in better condition.

Valeriana montana and Valeriana saxatilis

Valeriana montana and Valeriana saxatilis grew right next to each other.

Clematis alpina

Clematis alpina climbed over what I think was probably the same species of willow that I saw higher up, but much less compact in a less harsh environment.

Alpine garden plants thriving in rocky terrain with lush green foliage and purple flowers, showcasing alpine gardening diversity and beauty.

Cracks between the rocks nurtured Saxifraga sedoides, Viola biflora, Globularia cordifolia, and many other familiar plants.

Pinellia tripartita flowering plant in a garden bed - alpine garden society, rare alpine plants, flower photography.

Retreat

However, it was still bitterly cold.  We had found the plant we came to look for (Rhodothamnus chamaecistus), with the unexpected bonus of white Pulsatilla alpina.  The paths in the rocks around the Cinque Torri were steep, and a bit of a scramble, even with steps, and the cold had sapped our enthusiasm to explore.  So we decided to return to the rifugio at the top of the chair-lift for a hot drink, and to get out of the wind.

On our way back, we saw a pale blue form of Gentiana verna just opening, and watched a bird I didn’t recognise.  This turned out to be an Alpine Accentor.

The mountains on all sides were spectacular, and there were lots of interesting plants to see.  This is definitely a place I would like to revisit, preferably on a warm sunny day.

Alpine Garden Society logo displayed in a scenic mountain landscape, highlighting the society's focus on alpine plants and gardening in mountainous environments, with rugged peaks and lush greenery.

Corvara

Returning from dinner that night, we once again had a fine sunset, promising better weather for the following day.